Keerai Milagootal

This dish is typical of the Palakkad Iyer subcommunity of southern India, on the border of Kerala and Tamil Nadu. My mother-in-law taught me to make it. The drumstick leaves, currently the darling of Western lifestyle bloggers under the scientific name "moringa," have been enjoyed for centuries in India. If you can't find drumstick leaves, substitute any mild cooked green; frozen spinach works fine. 

1 cup moong dal
6 to 10 cups fresh drumstick leaves (or 1 cup frozen spinach)
1 Tbsp coconut oil
1 Tbsp urid dal
4 dried red chiles
6 Tbsp desiccated unsweetened coconut
1/4 to 1/2 tsp cumin powder
Salt to taste (start with 1 tsp)
2 tsp coconut oil
1/2 tsp black mustard seeds

Wash moong dal until water runs clear. Cook uncovered in quadruple its volume of water in a large pot (water line should be no more than halfway - this dal tends to boil over) until very soft and beginning to fall apart, about 20 minutes.

While dal cooks, steam drumstick leaves using a very small quantity of water to yield 1 cup cooked. Remove from heat, reserving cooking liquid; finely mince.

In a medium skillet, heat coconut oil over medium-high heat. Saute urid dal and dried red chiles until dal is just golden brown. Remove from heat; add coconut, stirring to combine. Allow to cool, then blend in a Magic Bullet-style blender with double its volume of water until smooth.

When dal is cooked, stir in the spice paste until smooth. Add drumstick leaves and their liquid. Stir in cumin powder and salt.

Heat remaining coconut oil over high heat. When it shimmers, add mustard seeds and cover. When popping subsides, pour atop dal mixture. Serves 4 with rice.