The Sensitive Kitchen

Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Cheddar Gougeres

This classic appetizer starts with the same dough used to make cream puffs and takes them for a savory spin. I like to have gougeres ready for last-minute holiday guests by freezing them (unbaked) well ahead of time, then popping them into the oven when I need them. Make sure you use the strongest-flavored, tastiest cheese you can find; as with most recipes, the finished product is only as good as its ingredients.
 
1 c water 
1/4 c (1/2 stick) butter, cut into 4 pieces 
1/4 tsp. cayenne (optional)
1/2 tsp. coarse kosher salt, plus additional for sprinkling 
1 cup + 2 Tbsp. all purpose flour 
4 large eggs 
1 1/2 c (packed) grated extra-sharp cheddar cheese 
2/3 cup minced scallions, arugula, basil or fresh green flavoring of your choice
 
Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Bring water, butter, cayenne and salt to a boil in a heavy medium saucepan. Remove from heat; mix in flour. Stir over medium heat until mixture becomes slightly shiny and pulls away from sides of pan, about 3 minutes. Transfer to stand mixer fitted with paddle. Add eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition to form sticky dough. Mix in cheese and scallions. 

Using 2 teaspoons, form dough into 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" ovals. Drop onto baking sheets 1" apart. (Can be made ahead. Place baking sheets in freezer, remove gougeres to a container or Ziploc bag when hardened, keep frozen up to 1 month.) 

Preheat oven to 375°F. Bake until golden, about 30 minutes if at room temperature and 35 minutes if chilled or frozen. Serve immediately. Makes about 36.

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Sunday, November 03, 2013

Super-Tender Cashew Burfi

This burfi is crumblier than the other recipe I have on this site, but also very tender.

Hardware:
Candy or frying thermometer
Silpat (silicone baking mat)
Heatproof spatula
Parchment (not waxed) paper
Butter or ghee

Software:
3 c raw cashews
1/2 c water
2 c sugar
1/8 tsp ground cardamom

Grind cashews in batches to a fine powder. Don't over-process, or you'll get cashew nut butter! Set aside. Thoroughly butter your Silpat.

Place sugar in a saucepan; shake gently to distribute. Pour water over, starting at edges and finishing in middle, so no sugar crystals stick to sides of saucepan. Place over medium-high heat; bring to a boil. Cook without stirring until syrup reaches "thread" stage, 223
º to 234º F (106-112ºC) on thermometer.

Remove from heat. Add powdered cashews to syrup. Sprinkle cardamom over top; stir until thoroughly combined. Pour onto buttered Silpat. Using a well-buttered spatula, pat until thickness is even and shape is rectangular. Let cool 5 minutes, then use a table knife dipped in hot water to cut diamond shapes. Allow to sit at least 20 minutes, then break into individual pieces. When thoroughly cool, store in an airtight container.


2019 note: Made this with 2 3/4 cups almond flour instead of ground cashews. Stopped the sugar syrup at the high end of the range (231º F). It saved time and came out VERY well — evenly textured, not as crumbly, poured a bit thicker and set faster. 

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Friday, November 01, 2013

Chiwda (Bombay Mixture)

Bombay chiwda is the original Kettle corn: a bit spicy, a bit sweet, a bit salty, and thoroughly wonderful. Since poha consumes a lot of oil when fried, this dish falls firmly in the category of "special occasion food." But do make it anyway; you won't be sorry. If your household includes no homesick Indians, you can easily halve the recipe and it will turn out just the same.

2 tsp cayenne
2 tsp granulated sugar
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp salt
2 c thick poha (beaten rice; available at Indian markets)1 c golden raisins
1 c whole skinned peanuts
1/2 c whole or halved cashews
3/4 c curry leaves, halved if large
1/2 c large-flake unsweetened coconut, broken into pieces if large
1 c rice bran or other oil for frying

Mix together cayenne, sugar, turmeric and salt; set aside. Measure all ingredients; set aside. Have ready a 5-quart stainless steel bowl and two heatproof silicone spatulas.

In a large stainless steel skillet, heat 1 Tbsp oil. When it shimmers, scatter a small handful of poha over the top. It will immediately puff. Toss in skillet with a clean spatula until evenly puffed and browned, then remove to stainless bowl. Put another Tbsp of oil in skillet to heat. Using the second spatula, toss puffed poha with a bit of spice mixture until evenly coated. Repeat until all of poha is puffed and all of spice mixture is used.

Fry peanuts and cashews in a very little bit of oil until beginning to brown; add to bowl. Crisp curry leaves in batches in a bit of oil; add to bowl. Toast coconut, using up any remaining oil in skillet. Toss thoroughly. When cool, store in an airtight container. Makes 4 quarts.

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